Saturday, April 13, 2013

Hollandsche Manege

This has to be one of the most surprising places in Amsterdam.  Along a quiet, affluent street just beside the Vondel Park there is a row house with a gateway rather than a front door.  The sign above the gateway reads 'Manege' (stables).


Enter through the archway and it is like entering the Tardis - this is not just a stable, suddenly one is is transported to the Spanish Riding School of Vienna!


This incredible indoor riding arena was indeed based on the famous Austrian landmark.  It was designed by A. L. van Gendt in 1882 in renaissance style.  Van Gendt was a big name in architecture at the end of the 19th century, designing both the Concertgebouw and the Stadschouwberg in a last hurrah of nostalgic design, before Cuypers, Berlage, de Klerk and co. revolutionised Amsterdam architecture.

The indoor arena is used for classical dressage events, but also for normal riding lessons.  When I visited on a Saturday afternoon, three little girls were being put through their paces - it was like a beginners' ballet lesson on the stage of the Covent Garden Opera House!

There are over 60 horses stabled at the manege, and even to they untrained eye, they look like top of the range models.


Above the stables and tack room there is an elegant cafe, reached by a graceful stairway. There is a real conflict of the senses - the eyes tell you one thing, the nose another.  Is this a stately monument or a farmyard!




As you can guess, Ambrosia is not an equine aficionado, I was more there for the building than the livestock, but never mind - I was still very impressed! As a monument, the Hollandsche Manage is magnificent, and the equestrian events here must be truly spectacular.  This is the oldest riding school in the Netherlands and I'm sure the riding lessons are second to none.


And who would have thought this jewel could be hidden away just a few minutes form the busy Leidseplein. Certainly not me!


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