Situated on a sharp corner of the Prins Hendrikkade and the Binnenkant, the main entrance of the Scheepvaarthuis towers upwards, like the prow of a ship. This impressive doorway (originally reserved for directors only) is decorated with symbolic sculptures by Hildo Krop, venerating the great oceans sailed by the Dutch traders of the Golden Age.
The entrance for tradesmen and the hoi polloi is located on the flank of the building along the Prins Hendrikkade. This side of the building bears stylised busts of the great Dutch seafarers - Barendsz, Van Diemen, J.P. Coen, Roggeveen and their contemporaries.
This maritime palace is richly decorated by statues, carvings and wrought ironwork representing tridents, ropes, fish, seahorses, shells and above all, WAVES. One can almost feel the swell underfoot!
When the six Amsterdam shipping companies united to build the Scheepvaarthuis, they took the bold step of commissioning an unknown designer - Jo van der Mey. Gossips at the time speculated that van der Mey, who was barely in his thirties, must be the director's bastard son, but the young man won the project fair and square. Van der Mey went on to engage two even younger architects from the studio of Eduard Cuypers - Piet Kramer and Michel de Klerk - and together they seized the challenge and developed a revolutionary new style, now seen as the starting point of the Amsterdam School. Elegant decorative brickwork, combines with organic shapes and context-related, symbolic ornamentation. There is a certain youthful exuberance and individuality in the Scheepvaarthuis, which makes it a completely original piece of expressionist architecture. No expense was spared on materials - the finest hardwoods, marble, stained glass, granite and slate combine to luxurious effect.
The Scheepvaarthuis is now a five star hotel - The Grand Hotel Amrath - but the conversion has respected the heritage of this national monument and is a great success. The former offices have been neatly transformed into hotel rooms, the original directors' lifts are preserved intact and the booking desks look just as if a steamboat ticket to Java could be purchased tomorrow.
The most impressive feature of the interior is the magnificent stairwell with its stained glass roof - a secular cathedral to a sea-faring past. The Americas are depicted on one side, Europe, Asia and Africa on the other. The art deco lamps, the navigational star signs and the chariots of the gods are a tribute to the Golden Age voyages of discovery and trade.
The Boardroom is preserved intact, and what a delight this is - fascinating undersea details on every surface - seahorses on the walls, fish framing the fireplace, squid and octopi on the doors, lamps like jelly fish... the whole room is a fabulous celebration of the sea.
The roof terrace of the Scheepvaarthuis provides one of the best views over Amsterdam (and there is a lot of competition for this accolade!): the harbour and NEMO on one side, Central Station the new EYE film museum to the north, the Beurs, Damrak, the palace on the Dam, all the spires of Hendrick de Keyser, leading on to the Tropical Museum and Rijksmuseum in the distance - a magnificent vista.
The rooftop mouldings of waves, nets and fish can be admired at close range, and imagine what it must be like to spend the night in the turret, which is now a split-level honeymoon suite.
It is possible to arrange a guided tour of the Scheepvaarthuis via Museum Het Schip - a Society devoted to the buildings of the Amsterdamse School. An enthusiastic guide can provide a fascinating insight into the design of the building and share stories of its time as a shipping house.
http://www.hetschip.nl/nl/component/content/article/24-nederlands/rondleidingen/diversen/223-scheepvaarthuis-zondagarrangement-i
Adding to the pleasure of the tour is a combination with a most exceptional High Tea - a glass of Pro Secco and a dainty cup of lobster bisque to start, then sandwiches, scones and a selection of cakes accompanied by three gourmet teas. Quite the nicest way to spend an afternoon in the elegant surroundings of the hotel tea room. Combination with a soup and sandwich lunch is also possible at a lower price - whatever takes your fancy.
The combined tour and high tea is not cheap at 53 euros, but honestly it is worth every cent. The fee includes a free ticket to visit the Museum Het Schip and the social housing projects of de Klerk in the Spaarndammersplantsoen. This ticket is valid for one year, so there is no need to cram in all the delights of the Amsterdam School in one one day.
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